Smooth
A left barrel... No one out.. Would you go in?
I surely would!!
Aloha and Mahalo for reading
It is not surprising that there is a connection between surfing and meditation. Except for those exceptional days, when wave after wave rolls in, you have nothing to do except float there in the ocean, in relaxed alertness.
“Once you actually get there (catch a wave) and do all that stuff that requires good timing, time goes out the window, it really seems like that could be translated into all aspects of life. For example a yoga teacher or a monk that just sits down and becomes aware of having a body and being alive and letting go of the mind, experiences that same feeling where the mind disappears and so does time and whats left is a kind of joy or creative peace.”
David Rastovich – Pro surfer