segunda-feira, abril 25, 2011

Gotta



Let you know...

Aloha and Mahalo for reading
Another



Day..

Aloha and Mahalo for reading

terça-feira, abril 05, 2011

terça-feira, março 29, 2011

quinta-feira, março 24, 2011

terça-feira, março 22, 2011

quarta-feira, março 02, 2011

segunda-feira, fevereiro 28, 2011

terça-feira, fevereiro 22, 2011

quarta-feira, fevereiro 16, 2011

Raw



And simple...

Aloha and Mahalo for reading

P.s. I´m really sick in my belly... :(

sexta-feira, fevereiro 11, 2011

All I need



Is to settle my mind... And give it some rest...

Aloha and Mahalo for reading

quarta-feira, janeiro 19, 2011

Fish Design


The Fish was originally designed in the early '70s as a board that could be used as a kneeboard and stand-up surfboard, hence its designation as a hybrid. At the time, many surfers were infatuated with the new concept of "total involvement" surfing. Just how deep and tight a rider could surf in the curl was still being mapped out, and there were those -- influenced by George Greenough's example -- who thought that perhaps kneeriding was the best path to "total involvement in the curl."

The Fish wasn't the first split-tailed board, nor was it the first twin-fin. Both of these designs had been done in balsa as far back as Bob Simmons' and even Tom Blake's time. In fact, ultra-short twin-fins were already making the rounds in the very early '70s, before Steve Lis is credited with combining both the split tail (swallow) and the twin-fin into what came to be known as the "Fish."

The Fish was the epitome of the backyard board. The backyard revolution was sweeping through the surfing world in the late '60s and early '70s, as new ideas came faster -- and old dogma tossed away more readily -- than the big-time, cookie-cutter surf industry could react to in time. The Fish was designed in obscurity and popularized by word of mouth -- in direct contrast to the over-hyped and superstar-endorsed log models put out by the major manufacturers at that time.

A Fish board, as ridden by Reno Abellira, was the seminal board that begat the Mark Richards twin-fin era in the late '70s, and the original Fish design is still popular today. At around five-and-a-half feet in length and at least 21 inches wide, the outline appears anything but racy, but that's exactly what the fish offers. It's a potent design; even period boards that are shackled with some of the cruder features that were standard in the '70s can be much faster than a modern "high-performance" shortboard. Perhaps that is why so many young hotties scrounge garage sales and used board racks to find a vintage Fish that will give them a taste of blinding horizontal speed that the modern shortboard lacks.

Of course, the array of spin-offs that cropped up in the mid-90s and continue today -- each with its own model name, dimensions and fin arrangements -- can't rightly be called Fish. Such postmodern are generally just slightly wider shortboards with swallowtails. (The younger generation of surfers using them generally ride widths of 17.5 inches to 18.5 inches; so any board over 19 inches would be the equivalent of the '70s or early '80s surfer riding a 21-inch wide board.)

First sparked by Tom Curren's 1992 J-Bay speed run on one of Derek Hynd's custom, keel-fin Skip Fryes, high-performance fans tended to 'split the difference' between their standard dimensions and fin set-ups and the original Fish concept -- adding an inch or so of width and maybe a tiny-trailer between two normal fins. Other additions came over the next 10 to 15 years -- including a shift in popularity from twins to quads, and more pulled in tails for turns.

No matter the interpretation, such fuller, more balanced outlines and flatter rockers offered much more speed and easy lift in junk surf and showed where hotdog surfboard design was heading, best represented by the late 2000's arrival of boards like of Lost's "Rocket" or Dane Reynolds' "Dumpster Diver." (Proof that even a truly sensible or functional trend in surfboard design must be camouflaged with a gimmicky names or a superstar rider to appeal to a certain market.)

In the end, all forms of Fish are really just hipper versions of the funboard philosophy, adding some foam to make surfing more enjoyable. And though all may borrow more from the mid-'80s tri-fin than it does from the more extreme Lis Fish, they remain a welcome alternative to the super-narrow, rockered-out designs of previous decades.

-- Dave Parmenter (updated, December 2009)

Text taken from surfline.com

Aloha and Mahalo for reading

quinta-feira, janeiro 13, 2011

segunda-feira, janeiro 10, 2011

sexta-feira, janeiro 07, 2011

quinta-feira, dezembro 30, 2010

terça-feira, dezembro 28, 2010

segunda-feira, dezembro 27, 2010

quarta-feira, dezembro 22, 2010

Greg Noll

Said :

"you build the fucking thing and ride it. if it works, then you made a good board"

Epic Words ;)

Aloha and Mahalo for reading

sexta-feira, dezembro 17, 2010

quinta-feira, dezembro 16, 2010

quarta-feira, dezembro 15, 2010

terça-feira, dezembro 14, 2010

terça-feira, novembro 30, 2010

sexta-feira, novembro 26, 2010

quinta-feira, novembro 25, 2010

terça-feira, novembro 16, 2010

sábado, novembro 06, 2010

Retreat

I'm starting today a nine day retreat.
See you all on the 14th ;)

Aloha and Mahalo for reading

terça-feira, novembro 02, 2010

sexta-feira, outubro 29, 2010

quinta-feira, outubro 28, 2010

quarta-feira, outubro 27, 2010

quinta-feira, outubro 21, 2010

terça-feira, outubro 19, 2010

segunda-feira, outubro 18, 2010

sábado, outubro 16, 2010

quinta-feira, outubro 14, 2010

quarta-feira, outubro 13, 2010

Listen



Carefully... ;)


'ANAPANAPA,
The stars are

I TE MAU FETI'A.
shining through tonight.

'I TERA PO MATA'I,
Feeling this night breeze,

TE PAE MITI NOA TAUA
there we stand by the ocean.


CHORUS:
A)-'OE I MUA IA'U,
As you sit by me,

MAI TE MEA MATAMUA,NO TA'U NEI HINA'ARO,
you're the very first thing I long for.

'OE TE TIARE HUA 'AI TE PO.
Gazing at you remind me of a "Tiare" flower that closes-in at nightfall.


B)-'OE I MUA IA'U,
As you stand by me,

MAI TE MOEMOEA IA, NO TO'U NEI ORARA'A,
you're the one I dream of and want to be part in my life.

'OE TE TIARE HUA 'AI TE PO.
Gazing at you remind me of a "Tiare" flower that closes-in at nightfall.


Aloha and Mahalo for reading

terça-feira, outubro 12, 2010

segunda-feira, outubro 11, 2010

segunda-feira, outubro 04, 2010

Just


Relax... ;)

Aloha and Mahalo for reading

P.s. flying back home today :D huhuhuhuh

domingo, outubro 03, 2010

sábado, outubro 02, 2010

I need


Quando estou no mar
Me sinto bem
Tá tudo zen
Paro de pensar
E os problemas ficam na areia

Quando a série entrar
Eu vou remar em direção
A linha do horizonte

Não posso explicar
Aquilo que sinto
Mas eu posso garantir que não há nada
Que um bom dia de surf não cure
Não há nada que um bom dia de surf não cure

Quando estou no mar
Eu sinto a paz
Que o vento traz
Olho ao meu redor
E agradeço aquele momento

Pois, quando a série entrar
Eu vou remar em direção
A linha do horizonte

Não posso explicar
Aquilo que sinto
Mas eu posso garantir que não há nada
Que um bom dia de surf não cure

To get back Home and Surf

Aloha and Mahalo for reading

sexta-feira, outubro 01, 2010

Surf and Surf


Quando acaba o dia
Choro por dentro
E lembro quando a gente ia pro mar (ia pro mar)
Quando chega a noite
Lembro do tempo
Que a gente costumava viajar no pensamento
E os reggaes que a gente ouvia
Em mim tudo era alegria
Eu me sentia bem quando estava com você
Meu bem, meu erro foi te perder

Por isso vou surfar
Pra esquecer
Vou flutuar nas ondas do mar
Pra relaxar
Vou surfar pra esquecer
Vou flutuar nas ondas do mar

Sorrimos juntos
Choramos também
Seus olhos verdes me faziam transpirar
Não sei se mentiu, só sei que acreditei
No motivo que fez você me deixar
Quando só amigos
Nunca imaginei
Que um belo dia a gente fosse se amar
Pra mim você foi presente de Jah do poderoso Jah
Mas veio e foi sem mesmo eu esperar por isso eu vou surfar

Vou surfar Pra esquecer
Vou flutuar nas ondas do mar
Pra relaxar
vou surfar pra esquecer
Vou flutuar nas ondas do mar do mar
Vou surfar pra esquecer
Vou flutuar nas ondas do mar.

Aloha and Mahalo for reading
Year 2

For this blog..
Thank you all for reading and watching..

Obrigado a todos pela vossa participação no blog..
Ainda á forças para continuar ;)

Aloha and Mahalo for reading