Pat Curren



"Pat Curren was born in 1932 in Carlsbad, California and grew up in San Diego’s Mission Beach. In 1950 he moved to La Jolla and began surfing at the age of 18."

For me Pat is an inspiration.. he´s the "Jack" of all trades.. He´s the true Waterman.. What he did for the sport of surfing very few did..

Keep´s me stoked every single day to read something about Pat.. I don´t know if you have seen him shaping in the movie "Glass Love", but those minutes are simply magical, where he shapes a board for his son Joe.
The love for the craft is amazing.. The attention for the detail.. Last "touches" in the shape...

He´s so quiet like me, but yet he "screams" everytime he´s on a wave..



Thanks Pat

Aloha and mahalo for reading

Surfer´s Code By Shaun Thomson




I will never turn my back on the ocean

I will always paddle back out

I will take the drop with commitment

I will know that there will always be another wave

I will realize that all surfers are joined by one ocean

I will paddle around the impact zone

I will never fight a rip tide

I will watch out for other surfers after a big set

I will pass on my stoke to a non-surfer

I will ride, and not paddle in to shore

I will catch a wave every day, even in my mind

I will honor the sport of kings

Aloha and Mahalo for reading..

New kid Joe Aaron on the block



Really smooth and clean..

Apareçam mascarados....

Wipeout

Heaven or hell?



wipeout
n 1: an event (or the result of an event) that completely
destroys something [syn: destruction, demolition,
wipeout]

What´s there to say about wipeouts?
One thing only!!! You´ll remember every single one of them..

Aloha and Mahalo for reading

Home

"Home is where your heart is."



Me at home!!

For me Home is very important. I spend a lot of time away from home (as I´m writting these words i´m in Sweden away from the Ocean) which for me represents sometimes a lot of pain.



Aloha and Mahalo for reading..

Aloha




A-Akahai Kindness
L-Lôkahi Unity
O-Olu´olu Agreeable
H-Ha´aha´a Humility
A-Ahonui Patience

Practice your Aloha everyday..

Wave




A wave is a disturbance that propagates through space and time, usually with transference of energy.

Out of the water, I am nothing. - Duke Kahanamoku

Stoked

Definition of stoked:

-"stoked" - adjective - to be "stoked" is to be completely and intensely enthusiastic, exhilirated, or excited about something. those who are stoked all of the time know this; being stoked is the epitome of all being. when one is stoked, there is no limit to what one can do.
-also, "stoke" - verb - one can "stoke" oneself out by facing challenges or by revving up an engine within oneself to accomplish that which one desires.
-slang : being in an enthusiastic or exhilarated state
-adjective Slang. 1. exhilarated; excited.
2. intoxicated or stupefied with a drug; high.

These are some definitions that you can find on the web.. Tell me your definition of stoked!!

I can tell you one thing.. I´M STOKED ON LIFE

Aloha and mahalo to everyone

Greatness

Are you feeling down?



Whenever I´m down in the gutter, I simply watch this video and everything starts to make sense again...

Live your life to the fullest of your abilities.. Never think that you can´t do it, because deep down we all can do anything that we put our minds into it..

Aloha and Mahalo

Get Out There

The Ocean is calling you..

For me this video captures the true essence of surfing which is sharing..

Share and preserve our Oceans... Surf a lot and respect Nature a lot...

Do your share to help the Planet.. Recycle.. Help maintain "our" waves intact, free of polution, war and anger.

If we don´t do anything for ourselves no one will.

SMS

Acabei de receber este sms dum dos meus melhores amigos o Joao Pedro, que dizia o seguinte:

"Bushman, ias adorar estar aki! Tou mesmo acampado em frente ao pico dos longboard riders! Enigmático... cotas c 60 anos ou mais a surfar! Alta onda... Foi aki k as pranchas Malibu ganharam proeminencia! Adivinha onde tou? Grde abraço JP"

I just got an sms from one of my best friends Joao Pedro:

"Bushman, you´d love to be here! I´m camping just right in front of the longboard riders peak! Enigmatic... sixty years old people and older surfing! Great vibe... Here was where Malibu surfboards became proeminent! Guess where I´m at? Big hug JP"

Rapidamente respondi Noosa Heads...

I instantly answered Noosa heads...

Mas para meu espanto ele respondeu c este sms:

But guess what, he replied with this:

"Wrong! Game over insert coin.. Crescent Head! Little Nobby´s Junction.. Dps mostro-te as fotos! 5af tou em Kirra.. eheheh!"

"Wrong! Game over insert coin.. Crescent Head! Little Nobby´s Junction.. I´ll show you the pics when I get back! Thursday I´ll be in Kirra.. eheheh!"

Este sms encheu-me o dia.. e mostrou-me o "stoke" que cada um tem dentro de si..

This sms made my day.. and showed me the "stoke" that everyone has inside..

The right life

Living the right life is living out in the ocean...

Shelter

As long as you got your eyes open and you find something you have faith in, nothing can touch you.

Rob Machado

Spirit of Aloha

Today I went up north to Ericeira (worldly reknowned surf spot here in Portugal) to get some waves, and after struggling for about an hour with the rips, I finally started scoring some good ones. At this peak there were only a couple of guys, a girl and this guy that you could see that was relatively new to surfing.
The tide was getting pretty low and the waves getting faster, and this guy went over the falls each and every single wave, but he didn´t back off an inch, wave after wave always being sucked off, and everytime he came back to the line up, the smile was there.
After a while we started talking and he told me that he started surfing last june and he was telling me that so stoked, that I couldn´t help writing some words about this guy...

He has the smile, he´s surfing and he has the spirit of Aloha.

He´s got the Gift of Life

Aloha to all

Surfing

Surfing for me is the ultimate sensation.. Just yesterday after my nephew was born I went down to the beach and surfed till dusk set in.. Everytime you go out it´s just like nothing and no one else exists beside you and the ocean, but yesterday my nephew was with me in my mind, meaning that all important things in your life may also go out with you into the ocean...

Stand tall David...

Mais um surfista nasceu hoje.. Parabéns ao meu sobrinho/afilhado..

Viva o David

David Lopes

Pois é!!! Amanhã vai nascer mais um surfista para o line up da vida e das ondas claro.. O seu nome como podem ver no titulo será David,e vai ser o meu primeiro sobrinho..
Peço a todos as vossas boas vibes para o dia de amanhã já que o parto vai ser de risco..

Good vibes from you all for tomorrow.. My first nephew is coming out into our line up...

Guaranteed

I guarantee that I will Surf for a long long time...

Garanto-vos que irei surfar por muitos e longos anos...

Happiness

"Happiness is only real when shared"

Christopher McCandless

Mandamentos do Surf

1- Nunca ande muito longe de um bom surf.
2- Sempre carregue uma prancha.
3- Está sempre melhor do que parece.

Marcus Sanders (surfista e escritor)

Localism



"O localismo é a antítese do surf"
Pedro Arruda

10 Steps on how to handle spots with localism

Step1Avoid surfing new breaks alone, especially if it is a popular break.

Step2Realize that localism is a result of overcrowding. Therefore, the more crowded a break is, the more tension there is likely to be in the water. Because locals feel at home at the break and feel invaded by unfamiliar faces, they sometimes react in a negative manner to newcomers.

Step3Realize also that surfing is a traveling sport, and nobody is meant to surf only those waves closest to home. You have just as much right to surf a wave at someone else's local break as that person has to surf the waves near your house.

Step4Practice surf etiquette in the lineup.

Step5Watch the other surfers. If only a few people seem to be taking most of the waves, those people are most likely locals, familiar with the wave.

Step6Mark the surfers who seem like troublemakers and egomaniacs. These surfers usually make a lot of noise, bitching about the crowd or pouting about their wave. They usually talk loud to other locals to let nonlocals know how "in" they are.

Step7Give these arrogant surfers a little extra space. Don't drop in on their wave or paddle around them for the peak. Wait for them to take a wave, and then move to the peak position.

Step8Be respectful, and concentrate on your surfing.

Step9Remain calm if someone tries to come at you with irrational anger. Apologize if you did something wrong, but don't be a coward. Explain that you are only interested in surfing.

Step10Take your next wave in, and call it a day if the vibe in the water begins to feel overly hostile.

I know but one freedom, and that is the freedom of the mind.
Antoine de Saint-Exupery

The Zen of Surf

Surfing means paddling out into the ocean, often at dawn, often alone, and sitting there on your board waiting for waves. You look at the horizon and watch. Minutes go by while fish, seals, dolphins, and sharks swim underneath your legs. You breathe in, you breathe out.



Drawing taken from wavetoon.blogspot.com

Shaped

"Não leve isto tão a sério, é apenas surf"
Robert Wingnut

Don´t take it so seriously, it´s just surfing..

Uma Onda - A Wave

“I will catch a wave every day, even if only in my mind.” Shaun Tomson

Todos os dias vou surfar uma onda, nem que seja só em pensamento. Tradução Livre



Um lenda do surf a falar de Jeffrey´s.

Surfing legend talking about Jeffrey´s.

Miki Dora

“O Miki Dora disse uma vez, que a vida é um desperdício de tempo e que surfar é uma bela maneira de alguém desperdiça-la.”
Devon Howard - surfista profissonal, escritor e fotógrafo.

Surfer vs Shaper Relationship



‘…Surfers eye is vital. Shaping is about making numbers balance but the interplay between all the different elements of a board are still ultimately judged by the craftsman. It’s all about relationship. How these measurements link up with one another – the feel of the board, the bottom and how it liaises with the deck, the form through the rail – if it’s high volume or low volume, and so on is all down to your eye.

The skill is still in the hands of a shaper. Technology will never replace that. The most important thing is getting the relationship right between the outline and the rocker, getting the interplay right. It’s a shaper’s job to make sure they compliment each other. The foundation of a good board is the rocker. A lot of care is spent getting this right, and then building out from there. You can breathe a little easier when it’s in place.

The best thing is right at the very end, standing back and just giving the board a final look over, making sure there are no bumps in the rails, no flat spots anywhere, just checking the overall form so it looks good from either end. The aesthetics are important in as much as, to a great degree, if a shape is aesthetically pleasing to the eye, there’s a high probability that it will work well in the water…’
NinePlus website quoted

Do you know your Shaper?

Soul Surfer



This is the highest level, the pinnacle of surfing spirituality equivalent to Nirvana, Satori, Total Enlightenment, etc. and is rarely attained. The Soul Surfer expresses himself through his unity with the breaking wave. He borrows the wave's spirit for a short while and uses his body and equipment to translate the essence of the wave's spirit into Art. Other Surfers respond to this and immediately recognize the Soul Surfer whether they admit it or not.

The Soul Surfer is a complete master of his tools, body and board. The Soul Surfer may train his body and practice with his board when not creating his Art, however, when he becomes one with the wave, his body and board are extensions of his mind. No conscious thought is expended upon the surfing techniques he uses to express the spirit of the wave with casual virtuosity. To make a musical analogy, a guitarist may woodshed his scales, but when he's jamming he's not even thinking about fingerings. He's lost in the passion of the moment. Just like a Photographic Artist who may have a several cameras and many lenses, the Soul Surfer could have a quiver of a dozen boards each with a different purpose. Likewise, other Soul Surfers may have only one board, or none at all.

Soul Surfers sometimes dress strangely and say things that make seem to make sense but you have no idea what they mean. Soul Surfers often rise from sleep very early to create their Art in private. Few people witness the Art of a true Soul Surfer since they do not think to promote themselves. Many do not even realize they have attained the highest level of surfing spirituality or appreciate their tremendous skill as they are beyond the need for any sort of evaluation. Those that do become conscious of their own expertise often regress to the lower level of Whore which sadly and paradoxically means you will almost never see the Art of a Soul Surfer unless you know one personally or are lucky enough to be at the right break at the right time.

Soul Surfers use any sort of surfing equipment: longboard, shortboard or no board at all. They use whatever tool their Art requires to express the spirit of the wave and are constantly evolving in their ongoing exploration of the wave-human unity. Soul Surfers are the human embodiment of Stoke.



Do Soul Surfers exist? Are you one of them?

Are there angels?
Os anjos existem?