Spirit of Aloha

Today I went up north to Ericeira (worldly reknowned surf spot here in Portugal) to get some waves, and after struggling for about an hour with the rips, I finally started scoring some good ones. At this peak there were only a couple of guys, a girl and this guy that you could see that was relatively new to surfing.
The tide was getting pretty low and the waves getting faster, and this guy went over the falls each and every single wave, but he didn´t back off an inch, wave after wave always being sucked off, and everytime he came back to the line up, the smile was there.
After a while we started talking and he told me that he started surfing last june and he was telling me that so stoked, that I couldn´t help writing some words about this guy...

He has the smile, he´s surfing and he has the spirit of Aloha.

He´s got the Gift of Life

Aloha to all