segunda-feira, novembro 24, 2008

Pipeline

The Banzai Pipeline, or simply "Pipeline" or "Pipe", is a surf reef break located off Ehukai Beach Park on the north shore of Oahu. A reef break is an area in the ocean where waves crash once they reach the shallows of a reef. Pipeline is notorious and famous for its huge waves breaking in shallow water just above its sharp and cavernous reef forming large, hollow and thick curls of water (a.k.a., tubes or barrels) that surfers can surf inside of and hopefully escape from using expert tube riding abilities.



Aloha and Mahalo for reading

domingo, novembro 23, 2008


The future
During the winter of 2005/2006, Jon Jon was the youngest competitor ever in the Pipeline Masters. He is completely at ease in giant surf at Haleiwa, Pipeline and Sunset. Farther out to sea, Jon Jon has been whipped into some giant waves that have some surfers using unheard of expressions like “10 times overhead,” because Jon Jon is such a sprout.


At the age of 16 Jon Jon is seen as the leader of the new generation of surfers..
Will it be a flop? Or will he be the next champion?
I see a waterman in the making...
Aloha and Mahalo for reading

sexta-feira, novembro 21, 2008

New Baby

Yesterday I was in the shaping bay with DJ Kane to see in loco one of my two new babies being born.
It started off as big, fat, rough and ugly blank..

And after 4 hours of hand shaping and 413 photos later, it became this amazing beauty



This new baby is a single fin hull 6´0´´x 21 1/2 x 2 7/8
Being able to see this whole transformation made me realize the amazing talent that DJ has. At the age of 20 DJ is for me a master shaper/craftsman, a very sensitive human being and a connaiseur of both the history of surfing and also European history.
His interpretation of a surfboard performance goes beyond the "normal" boundaries. Watching him shape also made me realize the focus that he has, even after being so tired because of all the shaping that he has been doing.
And today my second baby will be born ( 5´8´´twin keel)
Once again Thank You so much DJ
Aloha and Mahalo for reading

quinta-feira, novembro 20, 2008

Winner

I´m glad to anounce the winner of my latest challenge to all you readers out there.

The winner is Rui Ribeiro from http://magic-quiver.blogspot.com/
He will get this fantastic handshaped wooden surfboard. (shaped by yours truly)






Aloha and Mahalo for reading

quarta-feira, novembro 19, 2008


Doubt

A fluctuation of mind arising from defect of knowledge or evidence; uncertainty of judgment or mind; unsettled state of opinion concerning the reality of an event, or the truth of an assertion, etc.; hesitation. "Doubt is the beginning and the end of our efforts to know." Sir W. Hamilton.




Give the benefit of doubt at all times...

In case of doubt always go out there and catch a few... If no waves are present at the time, enjoy nature and the elements around you..

Aloha and Mahalo for reading

terça-feira, novembro 18, 2008

Challenge

As the blog reached 1000 hits I would like to challenge you!!

Send me your review on the blog.

The best review will get a nice prize.

bushmansurfer@gmail.com

P.s. Reviews are accepted until tomorrow :D

Aloha
Bing Copeland

Bing Copeland played a major role in helping surfing and the surfboard industry to become what they are today. At 13, he became fascinated while helping out at pioneer surfboard maker Dale Velzy’s workshop in Manhattan Beach. He spent the mid-’50s in the Coast Guard stationed in Hawaii and surfed the big waves of Oahu’s North Shore and Makaha. In 1958 he sailed across the Pacific and introduced modern surfboards to New Zealand. By 1960, back in Southern California, he was making surfboards commercially and his company became one of the longest-running and most progressive in the surfing world.











Aloha and Mahalo for reading

segunda-feira, novembro 17, 2008

Waterman

Join Laird Hamilton, Dave Kalama, Gerry Lopez and Rob Machado, along with Chris, Keith and Dan Malloy as they venture into the heart of Indonesia, into a hidden paradise of colossal barrels and perfect waves.

WaterMan takes you on an intimate boat trip with some of the most influential surfers of our time as they bodysurf, paddle surf, hydrofoil, stand up surf and tow surf in the Indian Ocean. Venture beyond the shallows of the surf culture into a deeper shade of blue.



Aloha and Mahalo for reading

domingo, novembro 16, 2008


Quote


You can't stop the waves, but you can learn to surf - Jon Kabat-Zinn



Aloha

sábado, novembro 15, 2008

Fresh off the mail

My latest buy from amazon.com



I´m starting off with Force of Nature by Laird Hamilton..

Later on i´ll be posting some personal reviews...

Aloha and Mahalo for reading

sexta-feira, novembro 14, 2008

Rob "The Mob" Machado

"Rob Machado is one of the world’s greatest surfers, having helped to define the modern era of the sport. Internationally known for his unique and impeccable style on land as well as the water, Machado was consistently seeded at the top of the world rankings as a competitor on the WCT Surfing Tour. With 12 career WCT victories, Machado was ranked among the top ten surfers eleven straight years, from 1995 through present, and was inducted into the Surfers Hall of Fame in 2000 and re-inducted in 2006."
taken from robmachado.com







Rob is for me one of my lifetime examples to follow. He´s an amazing surfer as well as an amazing Human being.
Best wishes for all your family.
Thank You Rob for all your contribution in my life and in my surfing..




Aloha and Mahalo for reading

quinta-feira, novembro 13, 2008

Bunker Spreckels

The story of Bunker Spreckels is a wild one. At the age of 21, he inherited a fortune thanks to his family’s sugar empire. By 27 he was dead. In between he evolved from a surfing hippy to an international playboy.




Bunker Spreckels lived fast - and died young.



Interview with Bunker here http://www.guardian.co.uk/sport/2007/oct/28/features.sport9

Aloha and Mahalo for reading

quarta-feira, novembro 12, 2008

PICARESQUE

–adjective 1. pertaining to, characteristic of, or characterized by a form of prose fiction, originally developed in Spain, in which the adventures of an engagingly roguish hero are described in a series of usually humorous or satiric episodes that often depict, in realistic detail, the everyday life of the common people: picaresque novel; picaresque hero.
2. of, pertaining to, or resembling rogues.




New longboard movie from mikey de temple

Aloha and Mahalo for reading

terça-feira, novembro 11, 2008

SICK

Today i´m really sick.. Influenza got me hard.
My body is all sore and numb, but then again the Sun will shine again tomorrow morning :D

Aloha and Mahalo for reading

segunda-feira, novembro 10, 2008

My jeans

Found this litlle pearl inside my Hurley jeans...

"One of the most beautiful things about our world is the constant state of change. The heart, soul and spirit of Hurley is rooted in the surf culture.
Our world is all about freedom of expression and the joy it brings. Music and art are pure gifts that we truly value. Creativity drives our curiosity about the world. We are extremely passionate about the indidual voice. We welcome you into our world."

Bob Hurley



Aloha and Mahalo for reading

P.s. They´re not paying me anything for the pub :D

domingo, novembro 09, 2008

Hawaii

If you´re thinking goin´ to hawaii you should check out this video..

Enjoy the Meca of surfing..



Aloha and Mahalo for reading..

sábado, novembro 08, 2008

Soulful

Surfing is art..
Surfing is freedom..
Surfing is communication and be in touch with the ocean and nature..



Aloha and Mahalo for reading

sexta-feira, novembro 07, 2008

Surfing

Surfing, alone among sports, generates laughter at its very suggestion, and this is because it turns not a skill into an art, but an inexplicable and useless urge into a vital way of life. - Matt Warshaw



Aloha and Mahalo for reading

quinta-feira, novembro 06, 2008

Bottom Turn

Too often overshadowed by flashier maneuvers, the bottom turn forms the cornerstone of strong surfing. It comes in several variations and lays the groundwork for the rest of the ride, making it an essential facet of a powerful style. As any experienced surfer will attest, a hard-driving bottom turn is as pleasing as any move.






Practice your bottom turn and your surfing will improve a lot..

Aloha and Mahalo for reading

quarta-feira, novembro 05, 2008

Body Surfer Obama

Congratulations to Mr Obama.

That Change is needed..



Let´s hope for peace in the world.. Happiness for all is my wish..

Aloha and MAhalo for reading

terça-feira, novembro 04, 2008

Freedom

Since it´s election day in the U.S. it´s just fair enough to write about one of the Human rights which is seldom overlooked by the americans..

The right to freedom...



Aloha and MAhalo for reading

segunda-feira, novembro 03, 2008

Barrel Ride

Surfing inside the barrel of a breaking wave is one of the best surfing experiences possible. Your first quality tube ride will make all the effort you spent learning to surf worthwhile.





Can you describe the feeling of a tube ride? The sound? The power? The beauty?



Aloha and Mahalo for reading

domingo, novembro 02, 2008

The Little Things

Little things that for me are priceless..

A smile, a hug, watching the sunrise, the sunset, check the surf..



Practice "your" little things everyday... It´s free of charge and it will charge you..

Aloha and Mahalo for reading

sábado, novembro 01, 2008

Board Porn





First two from Alexandre of Barrel Surfboards

And the last one a classic Waimea Gun Shaped by Pat Curren

sexta-feira, outubro 31, 2008

Pat Curren



"Pat Curren was born in 1932 in Carlsbad, California and grew up in San Diego’s Mission Beach. In 1950 he moved to La Jolla and began surfing at the age of 18."

For me Pat is an inspiration.. he´s the "Jack" of all trades.. He´s the true Waterman.. What he did for the sport of surfing very few did..

Keep´s me stoked every single day to read something about Pat.. I don´t know if you have seen him shaping in the movie "Glass Love", but those minutes are simply magical, where he shapes a board for his son Joe.
The love for the craft is amazing.. The attention for the detail.. Last "touches" in the shape...

He´s so quiet like me, but yet he "screams" everytime he´s on a wave..



Thanks Pat

Aloha and mahalo for reading

quinta-feira, outubro 30, 2008

Surfer´s Code By Shaun Thomson




I will never turn my back on the ocean

I will always paddle back out

I will take the drop with commitment

I will know that there will always be another wave

I will realize that all surfers are joined by one ocean

I will paddle around the impact zone

I will never fight a rip tide

I will watch out for other surfers after a big set

I will pass on my stoke to a non-surfer

I will ride, and not paddle in to shore

I will catch a wave every day, even in my mind

I will honor the sport of kings

Aloha and Mahalo for reading..

terça-feira, outubro 28, 2008

Wipeout

Heaven or hell?



wipeout
n 1: an event (or the result of an event) that completely
destroys something [syn: destruction, demolition,
wipeout]

What´s there to say about wipeouts?
One thing only!!! You´ll remember every single one of them..

Aloha and Mahalo for reading

segunda-feira, outubro 27, 2008

Home

"Home is where your heart is."



Me at home!!

For me Home is very important. I spend a lot of time away from home (as I´m writting these words i´m in Sweden away from the Ocean) which for me represents sometimes a lot of pain.



Aloha and Mahalo for reading..

domingo, outubro 26, 2008

Aloha




A-Akahai Kindness
L-Lôkahi Unity
O-Olu´olu Agreeable
H-Ha´aha´a Humility
A-Ahonui Patience

Practice your Aloha everyday..

sábado, outubro 25, 2008

Wave




A wave is a disturbance that propagates through space and time, usually with transference of energy.

quinta-feira, outubro 23, 2008

Stoked

Definition of stoked:

-"stoked" - adjective - to be "stoked" is to be completely and intensely enthusiastic, exhilirated, or excited about something. those who are stoked all of the time know this; being stoked is the epitome of all being. when one is stoked, there is no limit to what one can do.
-also, "stoke" - verb - one can "stoke" oneself out by facing challenges or by revving up an engine within oneself to accomplish that which one desires.
-slang : being in an enthusiastic or exhilarated state
-adjective Slang. 1. exhilarated; excited.
2. intoxicated or stupefied with a drug; high.

These are some definitions that you can find on the web.. Tell me your definition of stoked!!

I can tell you one thing.. I´M STOKED ON LIFE

Aloha and mahalo to everyone

quarta-feira, outubro 22, 2008

Greatness

Are you feeling down?



Whenever I´m down in the gutter, I simply watch this video and everything starts to make sense again...

Live your life to the fullest of your abilities.. Never think that you can´t do it, because deep down we all can do anything that we put our minds into it..

Aloha and Mahalo

terça-feira, outubro 21, 2008

Get Out There

The Ocean is calling you..

For me this video captures the true essence of surfing which is sharing..

Share and preserve our Oceans... Surf a lot and respect Nature a lot...

Do your share to help the Planet.. Recycle.. Help maintain "our" waves intact, free of polution, war and anger.

If we don´t do anything for ourselves no one will.

segunda-feira, outubro 20, 2008

SMS

Acabei de receber este sms dum dos meus melhores amigos o Joao Pedro, que dizia o seguinte:

"Bushman, ias adorar estar aki! Tou mesmo acampado em frente ao pico dos longboard riders! Enigmático... cotas c 60 anos ou mais a surfar! Alta onda... Foi aki k as pranchas Malibu ganharam proeminencia! Adivinha onde tou? Grde abraço JP"

I just got an sms from one of my best friends Joao Pedro:

"Bushman, you´d love to be here! I´m camping just right in front of the longboard riders peak! Enigmatic... sixty years old people and older surfing! Great vibe... Here was where Malibu surfboards became proeminent! Guess where I´m at? Big hug JP"

Rapidamente respondi Noosa Heads...

I instantly answered Noosa heads...

Mas para meu espanto ele respondeu c este sms:

But guess what, he replied with this:

"Wrong! Game over insert coin.. Crescent Head! Little Nobby´s Junction.. Dps mostro-te as fotos! 5af tou em Kirra.. eheheh!"

"Wrong! Game over insert coin.. Crescent Head! Little Nobby´s Junction.. I´ll show you the pics when I get back! Thursday I´ll be in Kirra.. eheheh!"

Este sms encheu-me o dia.. e mostrou-me o "stoke" que cada um tem dentro de si..

This sms made my day.. and showed me the "stoke" that everyone has inside..
The right life

Living the right life is living out in the ocean...

domingo, outubro 19, 2008

Shelter

As long as you got your eyes open and you find something you have faith in, nothing can touch you.

Rob Machado


sábado, outubro 18, 2008

Spirit of Aloha

Today I went up north to Ericeira (worldly reknowned surf spot here in Portugal) to get some waves, and after struggling for about an hour with the rips, I finally started scoring some good ones. At this peak there were only a couple of guys, a girl and this guy that you could see that was relatively new to surfing.
The tide was getting pretty low and the waves getting faster, and this guy went over the falls each and every single wave, but he didn´t back off an inch, wave after wave always being sucked off, and everytime he came back to the line up, the smile was there.
After a while we started talking and he told me that he started surfing last june and he was telling me that so stoked, that I couldn´t help writing some words about this guy...

He has the smile, he´s surfing and he has the spirit of Aloha.

He´s got the Gift of Life

Aloha to all

sexta-feira, outubro 17, 2008

Surfing

Surfing for me is the ultimate sensation.. Just yesterday after my nephew was born I went down to the beach and surfed till dusk set in.. Everytime you go out it´s just like nothing and no one else exists beside you and the ocean, but yesterday my nephew was with me in my mind, meaning that all important things in your life may also go out with you into the ocean...

Stand tall David...


quinta-feira, outubro 16, 2008

Mais um surfista nasceu hoje.. Parabéns ao meu sobrinho/afilhado..

Viva o David

quarta-feira, outubro 15, 2008

David Lopes

Pois é!!! Amanhã vai nascer mais um surfista para o line up da vida e das ondas claro.. O seu nome como podem ver no titulo será David,e vai ser o meu primeiro sobrinho..
Peço a todos as vossas boas vibes para o dia de amanhã já que o parto vai ser de risco..

Good vibes from you all for tomorrow.. My first nephew is coming out into our line up...

Guaranteed

I guarantee that I will Surf for a long long time...

Garanto-vos que irei surfar por muitos e longos anos...


terça-feira, outubro 14, 2008

segunda-feira, outubro 13, 2008

Mandamentos do Surf

1- Nunca ande muito longe de um bom surf.
2- Sempre carregue uma prancha.
3- Está sempre melhor do que parece.

Marcus Sanders (surfista e escritor)

domingo, outubro 12, 2008

Localism



"O localismo é a antítese do surf"
Pedro Arruda

10 Steps on how to handle spots with localism

Step1Avoid surfing new breaks alone, especially if it is a popular break.

Step2Realize that localism is a result of overcrowding. Therefore, the more crowded a break is, the more tension there is likely to be in the water. Because locals feel at home at the break and feel invaded by unfamiliar faces, they sometimes react in a negative manner to newcomers.

Step3Realize also that surfing is a traveling sport, and nobody is meant to surf only those waves closest to home. You have just as much right to surf a wave at someone else's local break as that person has to surf the waves near your house.

Step4Practice surf etiquette in the lineup.

Step5Watch the other surfers. If only a few people seem to be taking most of the waves, those people are most likely locals, familiar with the wave.

Step6Mark the surfers who seem like troublemakers and egomaniacs. These surfers usually make a lot of noise, bitching about the crowd or pouting about their wave. They usually talk loud to other locals to let nonlocals know how "in" they are.

Step7Give these arrogant surfers a little extra space. Don't drop in on their wave or paddle around them for the peak. Wait for them to take a wave, and then move to the peak position.

Step8Be respectful, and concentrate on your surfing.

Step9Remain calm if someone tries to come at you with irrational anger. Apologize if you did something wrong, but don't be a coward. Explain that you are only interested in surfing.

Step10Take your next wave in, and call it a day if the vibe in the water begins to feel overly hostile.

sábado, outubro 11, 2008

I know but one freedom, and that is the freedom of the mind.
Antoine de Saint-Exupery


sexta-feira, outubro 10, 2008

The Zen of Surf

Surfing means paddling out into the ocean, often at dawn, often alone, and sitting there on your board waiting for waves. You look at the horizon and watch. Minutes go by while fish, seals, dolphins, and sharks swim underneath your legs. You breathe in, you breathe out.




Drawing taken from wavetoon.blogspot.com

quinta-feira, outubro 09, 2008

Shaped

"Não leve isto tão a sério, é apenas surf"
Robert Wingnut

Don´t take it so seriously, it´s just surfing..


Uma Onda - A Wave

“I will catch a wave every day, even if only in my mind.” Shaun Tomson

Todos os dias vou surfar uma onda, nem que seja só em pensamento. Tradução Livre



Um lenda do surf a falar de Jeffrey´s.

Surfing legend talking about Jeffrey´s.

quarta-feira, outubro 08, 2008

Miki Dora

“O Miki Dora disse uma vez, que a vida é um desperdício de tempo e que surfar é uma bela maneira de alguém desperdiça-la.”
Devon Howard - surfista profissonal, escritor e fotógrafo.


Surfer vs Shaper Relationship



‘…Surfers eye is vital. Shaping is about making numbers balance but the interplay between all the different elements of a board are still ultimately judged by the craftsman. It’s all about relationship. How these measurements link up with one another – the feel of the board, the bottom and how it liaises with the deck, the form through the rail – if it’s high volume or low volume, and so on is all down to your eye.

The skill is still in the hands of a shaper. Technology will never replace that. The most important thing is getting the relationship right between the outline and the rocker, getting the interplay right. It’s a shaper’s job to make sure they compliment each other. The foundation of a good board is the rocker. A lot of care is spent getting this right, and then building out from there. You can breathe a little easier when it’s in place.

The best thing is right at the very end, standing back and just giving the board a final look over, making sure there are no bumps in the rails, no flat spots anywhere, just checking the overall form so it looks good from either end. The aesthetics are important in as much as, to a great degree, if a shape is aesthetically pleasing to the eye, there’s a high probability that it will work well in the water…’
NinePlus website quoted

Do you know your Shaper?

terça-feira, outubro 07, 2008

Soul Surfer



This is the highest level, the pinnacle of surfing spirituality equivalent to Nirvana, Satori, Total Enlightenment, etc. and is rarely attained. The Soul Surfer expresses himself through his unity with the breaking wave. He borrows the wave's spirit for a short while and uses his body and equipment to translate the essence of the wave's spirit into Art. Other Surfers respond to this and immediately recognize the Soul Surfer whether they admit it or not.

The Soul Surfer is a complete master of his tools, body and board. The Soul Surfer may train his body and practice with his board when not creating his Art, however, when he becomes one with the wave, his body and board are extensions of his mind. No conscious thought is expended upon the surfing techniques he uses to express the spirit of the wave with casual virtuosity. To make a musical analogy, a guitarist may woodshed his scales, but when he's jamming he's not even thinking about fingerings. He's lost in the passion of the moment. Just like a Photographic Artist who may have a several cameras and many lenses, the Soul Surfer could have a quiver of a dozen boards each with a different purpose. Likewise, other Soul Surfers may have only one board, or none at all.

Soul Surfers sometimes dress strangely and say things that make seem to make sense but you have no idea what they mean. Soul Surfers often rise from sleep very early to create their Art in private. Few people witness the Art of a true Soul Surfer since they do not think to promote themselves. Many do not even realize they have attained the highest level of surfing spirituality or appreciate their tremendous skill as they are beyond the need for any sort of evaluation. Those that do become conscious of their own expertise often regress to the lower level of Whore which sadly and paradoxically means you will almost never see the Art of a Soul Surfer unless you know one personally or are lucky enough to be at the right break at the right time.

Soul Surfers use any sort of surfing equipment: longboard, shortboard or no board at all. They use whatever tool their Art requires to express the spirit of the wave and are constantly evolving in their ongoing exploration of the wave-human unity. Soul Surfers are the human embodiment of Stoke.



Do Soul Surfers exist? Are you one of them?